Lacey Magruder Vineyard and Winery

About Lacey Magruder Vineyard and Winery

Lacey Magruder Vineyard and Winery sits at the top of Armstrong Road on the northwest side of Seneca Lake, a few minutes south of Geneva just off Route 14. The tasting room is a barn roughly two centuries old, restored over two years by Jim Hundertmark after he and his wife Ruth moved up from Baltimore, where they had run an Irish pub, and opened the winery in 2011. The name honors two Irish grandmothers, and the room shows it: a deep-red, gold-trimmed bar Jim built himself under the original posts and beams, walls hung with old signs and lanterns, and a deck out front with the lake in the distance.

The wines lean drier than the decor suggests. At opening the plan was European-style vinifera, with fruit bought from Lamoreaux Landing in Lodi and two acres of Sauvignon Blanc planted on the couple's five acres. The list now runs from Chardonnay and Riesling through Lot No. 1 Cuvée, an aromatic white blend of Muscat Ottonel, Vidal Blanc, Grüner Veltliner and Gewürztraminer, to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Blaufränkisch and the Bad Monkey Mix red built on the last two. Sweeter bottlings are named honestly: Sweet Lacey, a honey-and-apricot white with a touch of residual sugar, and Lady of the Lake, a native Niagara.

Tastings are poured at the bar, walk-in style; parties of eight or more should call ahead. Cheese plates are available, leashed dogs are welcome, and the deck is the place to settle with a glass. It is a small, seasonal, owner-run stop that rewards conversation more than a quick sip-and-go.